Monday, November 21, 2011

Ten Steps in Servicing Your Snow Blower

!±8± Ten Steps in Servicing Your Snow Blower

Avoid the annoying breakdown of your snow blower on a very cold winter morning when you have two feet of snow to remove, all before going off to work. At the beginning of winter, before the snow falls, is a good time to get out the snow blower and give it a service. By doing so, you will save money and time.

Find a clutter free area and workbench, bring in the snow blower. Have your tools ready and cleaning cloths to hand.

Drain the engine oil and old fuel into containers ready for recycling. Remove the carburetor and clean it. Take off inspection covers and check drive belts for wear. If the belts show any sign of damage or deterioration, now is the time to replace them. Before removing old belts, photograph them, the position of the tension pulleys and where the tension springs are anchored. Their positions look obvious before dismantling, but when replacing the belts, what was their correct position is not so obvious. If you have a snow blower with a speed selector, tip the snow blower on its front end, with the handles in the air. Take off the base and cover gear covers. The drive is a friction disc that moves across a larger aluminum disc. Check the rubber around the outside of the friction disc for damage and wear and replace if necessary. Whilst the snow blower is in this position, check the wheel bearings, is the drive shaft firm or is there a lot of play due to worn bearings. Because of the way in which the wheels are driven from the speed selector, there is an uneven force on the wheel axle. This does cause wear in the bearings, particularly those with plastic bearings. Broken or worn bearings can be replaced, by removing the wheels and bearing housings. Lubricate moving parts, linkages and grease hex shaft that the friction wheel slides along. Keep grease away from the rubber on the friction disc and the surface of the aluminum disc. Check the tire pressures and if you have chains on those tires, make sure that there are no broken links. Replace covers and set the machine back on the level. Obtain a spare set of shear bolts for the auger. DO NOT USE REGULAR bolts. I have had many a snow blower in the workshop where regular bolts had been used on the auger shaft, resulting in a broken auger gearbox. Shear bolts cost just a few dollars but a new gearbox, auger and drive shaft run into hundreds of dollars to fix. Check auger shaft bearings and replace those if necessary. Lubricate worm drive and gear on chute and that it operates freely when turned to deliver the snow to where you direct it. I found waxing the inside of the chute with car wax, helps to reduce the amount of snow build up and blocking the discharge chute. When in use and the discharge chute blocks, STOP ENGINE before clearing out the snow. This may seem obvious, but when you are cold and want to get inside for a hot drink, you are not always thinking about the consequences. Some time ago I did have a customer who lost the tops of his fingers by just doing that, trying to clear snow blockage from the chute. If the snow blower has an electric starter motor check that it is working correctly and engaging with the engine and turning the engine over. 10. After lubricating and cleaning the snow blower, fill the engine with 5W 30 oil, and put fresh gas in the fuel tank. Gas companies change the gas formula for winter driving. The gas is blended so as it will vaporize at a lower temperature. Summer gas can make it very difficult for the snow blower engine to fire up on a very cold day.

Basic maintenance and by being careful, much of the regular service routine can be done, which in turn will save you money. I found that by taking a few digital photographs, of the carburetor linkage, the tension pulley set up, the direction and lay of the drive belts, saved time and frustration when reassembling.

Since there are many different makes and models of snow blowers, this article is representative of many snow blowers on the market that I have serviced, but I cannot be held responsible for any injury or incorrect assembly that causes damage to the machine.

A snow blower that runs and performs well saves time, money and frustration.


Ten Steps in Servicing Your Snow Blower

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Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Understanding Confined Space Hazards

!±8± Understanding Confined Space Hazards

Confined spaces present a number of hazards. The most common is atmospheric hazards. Atmospheric hazards include a lack of oxygen, an oxygen-enriched environment, explosive levels of vapors, and toxic air contaminants.

Oxygen

An oxygen-deficient atmosphere is one in which there is less than 19.5 percent oxygen available. Low oxygen levels in a confined space can be caused by a number of conditions, including chemical reactions in sewage or other decomposing organic matter (for example, plants and leaves) or oxidation of metals (i.e., rusting). An oxygen-deficient confined space should never be entered without a respirator that supplies air to the user.

An oxygen-enriched atmosphere is one in which there is more than 23.5 percent oxygen. An oxygen-enriched environment is dangerous because it will cause flammable and combustible materials, such as clothing and hair, to burn violently when ignited. For this reason, pure oxygen should never be used to ventilate a confined space; a combined space should be ventilated with ambient air.

Flammable atmospheres

Flammable atmospheres develop as the result of a buildup of flammable vapors in the confined space. Methane, a product of certain types of decomposition, is a common flammable vapor found in confined spaces. Even when a flammable vapor is present, it must be in a range of concentrations that will allow it to ignite in order for it to be a hazard. Below a certain chemical/oxygen mix, there will be no ignition. This is known as the lower explosive limit (LEL). Conversely, above a certain chemical/oxygen mix, there is too much of a chemical vapor and too little oxygen for ignition to occur; this is called the upper explosive limit (UEL). Between the LEL and UEL, there is a hazard of ignition if a source, such as a spark or flame, is present a fire or explosion can occur. According to OSHA, a confined space is unsafe if a flammable gas is present at a level above 10% of the LEL. Workers may not enter a confined space under this condition. It must be ventilated to safe levels prior to worker entry.

Toxic gases

Toxic gases and vapors come from a wide variety of sources. For example, hydrogen sulfide and carbon monoxide are produced by sewage and rotting organic materials. Other sources of toxic atmospheres include spills or dumping of chemicals in the confined space. If toxic substances exceed OSHA regulatory limits, then the confined space needs to be appropriately ventilated or the workers need to wear appropriate respiratory protection.

Required monitoring

Air monitoring must be performed before entering any permit-required confined space. At a minimum, oxygen and the LEL must be monitored.

Oxygen-Oxygen must be tested prior to testing for the LEL. Most combustible gas meters require sufficient oxygen be present in order to obtain a reliable LEL reading; they will not provide reliable LEL readings in an oxygen-deficient environment. As noted above, oxygen levels should be between 19.5 and 23.5 percent. LEL-Once oxygen levels have been tested, testing needs to be completed for flammable gas and vapor levels. As noted, if readings indicate levels that are 10% or more of the LEL, the confined space may not be entered until it has been ventilated to reduce the LEL level. Toxic atmospheres-If there are toxic chemicals that may be present in the space, such as carbon monoxide, hydrogen sulfide, and chlorine, testing needs to be done to ensure that the atmosphere is not hazardous. If contaminants exceed safe levels, either the space must be ventilated to reduce the level of the hazardous contaminant or workers must wear appropriate respiratory protection.


Understanding Confined Space Hazards

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